I write a lot about the Costa Rica mountains in Perez Zeledon, where I live. It is the only place in Costa Rica where you can live in seriously high mountains (highest in Costa Rica, actually) and still be so close (less than an hour) from the beach.

Nevertheless, I don’t want to create the impression that the beach, in and of itself, is not great too!

Why?

Ok, let me explain the topography of the area a bit. If you take the Pan American highway from San Jose up over the Cerro de la Muerte and then down into the valley where San Isidro de El General is located, you are essentially driving over the tallest range in the country, the Talamancas. Chief among the peaks is Cerro Chirripo, Costa Rica’s highest at 3,821 meters (12,536 feet). Chirripo casts its tall shadow over the entire valley, which spans the distance between the Talamancas and the smaller coastal range, which we usually refer to as the Fila Costeña (also, Fila Brunqueña, after the Brunca indigenous peoples that have long made a home in the coastal range).

The Fila Costeña hugs the coastline and offers scenic and rocky ocean vistas that rival the Big Sur of California. I’m sure some might take issue with the comparison, but nevertheless it get’s the point across.

The Costa Ballena consists of numerous small communities that line the coastal highway, or Costanera. Chief among them are the popular tourist areas of Dominical, Uvita and Ojochal, with Dominical being the most northern of the three and Ojochal the most southern. However, each is only about 15 minutes from the other and the highway that links them is one of the best in Costa Rica, so it is very easy to travel around in the area and experience all of it.

There are a number of reasons this area is really very special…

First, there are the waves. The perennially popular “surfer dude” town of Dominical boasts some of the most consistent breaks in the country. However, there are numerous other surfing spots that dot the coastline as well, with waves that range in class from only for the experienced to perfect for beginners.

Then there’s the flora and fauna. Quite a bit of area is covered by the Costa Ballena. Unlike our neighbor to the north, Quepos and the popular tourist destination of Manuel Antonio, there is virtually no high-density condo-type development along the Costa Ballena. For one the topography of the area doesn’t really lend itself to that and second, the government has been quite guarded against any development that would threaten one of Costa Rica’s last largely undeveloped stretches of jungle-covered coastline.

So, the mountains that hug the coast are carpeted with a lush and green rainforest that is absolutely teeming to the brim with flora and fauna. Just to the south of us is the famed Osa Peninsula and the Corcovado National Park, which National Geographic once dubbed the most biodiverse location on the planet.

Despite the claim of the area being largely undeveloped that I just made above, there are nevertheless a lot of attractions that are making the Costa Ballena one of the fastest growing tourist locations, as well as a favorite retirement haven for expats…

The tourist options in the area are varied. I already mentioned the great waves. We also are blessed with the Marina Ballena National Park, which is a vast stretch of beach and marine park area that contains an important migratory route for the humpback whale. During the prime whale-watching months of August, September and October, many tourists come to the area to get a glimpse (and possible a splash) of these magnificent creatures.

The adventure-loving expats that one can find in our area love it primarily because it has not undergone the dense development of other areas, like Manuel Antonio, Tamarindo, or Jaco. Many have bought or built homes up in the hills with incredible ocean views, cool breezes and surrounded by their own private jungles. Many have opened cool and hip businesses that help make the bar and restaurant scene a very active and fun one.

The Costa Ballena is also home to the annual Envision Festival, which occurs in February of each year. It is Costa Rica’s version of “Burning Man” and it attracts thousands who are looking for the unique spiritual experience it offers.

Of course, my favorite thing about the area is that I can live up in my blessed mountains and still be close enough that a day-trip to the beach is an ever-possible spur of the moment decision at my disposal. You just can’t say that about any other area of Costa Rica.

And the city of San Isidro de El General, which lies less than an hour from the coast, is one of the fastest growing in Costa Rica and likewise offers the beach dwellers a great option for shopping, medical services, and entertainment choices that seem to grow a bit day by day.

You just have options in our area that other parts of Costa Rica can’t provide…

In my opinion, for the Costa Rica expat who really wants to experience what “the real” Costa Rica is all about, it just doesn’t get any better than that!