I realize that ocean views are really…really…nice. Don’t get me wrong, I like’em too! It’s also nice to be able to grab your board (the surfing variety) and be out in the waves in minutes.
Sure, I get all that.
But, for me, I prefer the following Costa Rica expat living idea: live in the mountains – visit the beach.
I know what you’re thinking. That I have some particular economic, or other, bias, in leading you up the hill rather than down. Truth is, however, I really don’t. I’m a real estate agent for Coldwell Banker in Dominical. That’s the beach. I live in San Isidro. That’s the mountains. I cover both and can just as quickly sell you a house down there as I can up here. I want you to be where you will be the happiest.
I am simply suggesting the following Costa Rica expat living idea: live in the mountains – visit the beach.
I know I’m repeating myself, but that helps with SEO and also to get the point across.
I think the best way to convey this idea is to take it through the screen of the 4 C’s framework. That is, to evaluate the idea based on the 4 C’s of Costa Rica expat living: Climate – Culture – Convenience – Context.
Climate
Unless for some weird reason you just like to sweat, all the time and not just when at the gym, then perhaps the beach heat and humidity will be just right for you. As for me, I prefer the cooler and less humid temps one finds at elevations above 800 meters. For that you need the mountains. Where I live in Quebradas, a mountain community just minutes from downtown San Isidro de El General, the altitude is in that “Goldilocks Zone” of being not too hot and not too cold…it’s just right. There are many other mountainous communities in the area where you can have the same.
Culture
This is a more subtle one than climate. It might not become apparent right away. However, for me anyway, the culture of the mountains wins hands down over the beach. For one thing it’s decidedly tico. In San Isidro, while we do have quite a few expats who “get it” and live up here, the tico culture still predominates.
Many expats come to Costa Rica wanting to immerse in a new culture, only to run as fast as they can for a gringo enclave and its corresponding “bubble culture.” For instance down along the Costa Ballena there is somewhat of a bubble culture. That is, the expats down there tend to live in a “bubble” that separates them in many respects from the locals. That can give rise to cultural resentment. And that can give rise to culture clash. Like I said, up here in the mountains we just don’t have that…yet…and hopefully never will!
Convenience
The ocean view is great. Finding what you might need at the beach isn’t always. Sure there are some nice shopping places down there…with prices that will lighten your wallet faster than you can whistle dixie. San Isidro de El General is the second largest city outside of the GAM of the central valley (the area that includes San Jose, Alajuela, Heredia and Cartago). Here you can find anything you need. We have the largest farmer’s market in the region. Expats at the beach find it necessary to make frequent trips to San Isidro for provisions or services they cannot find at the beach. In short, living within minutes of San Isidro, in a charming mountain community like Quebradas, or one of the many others, is simply much more convenient than living at the beach.
Context
Now here’s where the decision becomes harder. I believe the mountains win fairly decisively with regard to the above 3 C’s. However, this one is much more subjective.
What do you want your life to look like in Costa Rica?
Do you want to live the “bohemian” beach life, or a more rugged and authentic tico-like existence? If you want to be that “surfer dude”, yogi, or open a vegan bakery…you catch my drift…then maybe the beach is a better choice for you. If you want to eat, drink, shop, pay prices, and essentially live like a tico and immerse in authentic tico culture, then, in my opinion, the mountains are a better bet.
To conclude on a very bright note, here’s the coolest thing about Costa Rica’s southern zone: you can have your cake and eat it to! Here the highest mountains in the country are only an hour, or even less, from the beach.
Therefore, the following Costa Rica expat living idea: live in the mountains – visit the beach, is one that can become your reality in the southern zone of Costa Rica.
Now all of the above simply represents the opinion of one lowly expat…and you know what they say about opinions…like a part of the anatomy that I’ll neglect to mention, we all have one.
Allan says
Hi Scott. I think this is a good idea and thoughtful commentary. I have been traveling around Costa Rica for a while and love the beach, yet still do not want to be surrounded and emersed solely in the ideas and culture of home. Right now I am in the mountains of Arenal, and the cooler climate and lush vegetation is a welcome change. I’m beginning to consider the mountain option as a more viable choice.
Costa Rica Guy says
Allan…thanks for the comment. You should try our area Perez Zeledon, or San Isidro de El General. Here we have the highest mountains and still less than an hour from the beach! It’s the best of both worlds.
Hi Scott,
We will be staying in Jaco for a week in July 2019. While there, I want to scout out some mountain areas for retirement as that has always been my dream….to live in the jungle & mountains in Costa Rica…the house you just posted for sale that has 1 main house and 2 small houses on 2 acres in the mountain is my absolute dream location (though a bit out of my price range at the moment). My question is: How far is Quebradas from Jaco in drive time? Thank you.
Hi Shannon. I responded to your question by gmail as well, so please check your inbox. The drive time from San Isidro, where that house is located, to Jaco is about 2.5 hours, or maybe a little less.
Hi Scott, I had someone tell me that
if we were to move there that we would have to be there 6 months then leave for 3 weeks. Is that true?
Also, if I have my Real Estate License in Texas can I sell there? Just learn yalls rules? We want to buy there and retire there one day. We can’t retire yet. But one day.
On a tourist visa you’re generally allowed to stay for 3 months. Then you have to leave the country and renew the visa for another 3 months. Most people either go home for a visit, or jump over to Nicaragua or Panama for a few days. Some do this for years on end and we call them “perpetual tourists.” Once you apply for residency, you don’t have to leave any more, at least not unless your residency is ultimately rejected, then you’d be back in tourist visa status.
There is no licensing regime yet for realtors in Costa Rica. So, anyone can practice real estate and many do. However, technically you can’t “work” for an agency without a residency. Although, many do so anyway. You could always “hang a shingle” and work for yourself…many do that as well. Real estate is probably the number one way expats sustain themselves in Costa Rica, legally or illegally.