Conquering Chirripo – Round 2

Just returned from my second 2-day long ordeal to reach the top of Costa Rica, Cerro Chirripo.  First a few facts about this sacred mountain (sacred to me because of the blood, sweat and tears, yes tears, I have shed upon its rocky flanks)….

• highest mountain in Costa Rica, with an elevation of 3,820 meters (12,533 ft)
•  38th most prominent peak in the world
• from the trail-head, the summit can be reached via a 19.5-kilometer (12.1 mi) hike
• it is possible on clear days to see from coast to coast, from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea

Now for the statistics of my latest Chirripo conquest….

• trail-head to Base Crestones (the very “bare-bones” base-camp where one spends a cold night prior to striking out for the summit) – 7 hours, 13 minutes
• Base Crestones to summit and return to Base – 4 hours, 15 minutes
• Base Crestones to trail-head – 5 hours, 15 minutes
• total hike time – 16 hours, 43 minutes

Chirripo is an endurance test for anyone, let alone a 52 year-old who likes his Imperials and tragos de Flor de Caña a bit too much.  But apart from the sheer effort it takes to arrive at the top, there is an intense spiritual element in the experience, at least for me.  Once you enter into the valle de los conejos you reach a point of environmental nirvana that is as completely unsullied in its natural state as one can find on this planet and accessible to the human form without risking one’s life and limb (and bank account) to get there…..Everest comes to mind, but how many have died on its icy slopes?  Some really do pay a dear price as one unlucky man with a dislocated vertebrae was awaiting a helicopter to bring him back down to a hospital (at a price of around $5,000).  I am fortunate to say that my price was merely sore feet (my shoes were a bit too snug for the descent to be anything but a painful experience).

I made the trek this time with my buddy David Picado (he was unable to make the summit due to a bum knee that was aggravated on the 7 plus hour ascent to Base) and my 15 year-old sobrino (nephew for you gringos), Sebastian (or, Sebas as we like to call him).  Chirripo remains hidden from sight for most of the trek and only reveals itself about a kilometer or so prior to reaching the summit.  Sebas must have asked me a hundred times which peak was indeed Chirripo, as the park is home to numerous ones that closely rival the namesake in height.  But once you get that first glimpse of the jagged triangular peak one’s initial reaction is to gasp (at both its immaculateness and due to the fact that you know you must get up there….somehow).

And that somehow is basically with every ounce of energy your arms and legs can muster as you strain towards the top against gravity and lack of oxygen.  Once you arrive you are greeted with the most magnificent view that I have had privilege of laying eyes upon in my 52 years above ground.  I have not seen it myself, but they say on particularly clear days both oceans (Pacific and Caribbean) are visible.

I hope that this is not my last visit to this hallowed rocky parcel of my beloved Tiquicia.  In fact, I plan (at least in my head) to make the trek once a year for as long as my legs and lungs will allow it.  And since I live only an hour from the trail-head, there aren’t too many excuses for not doing so.  Chirripo presents a rough reminder of our mortality.  But also of the immortal nature of the human spirit as well as the author and creator of both.