Costa Rica Expat Tours

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When the Costa Rica Rain Comes

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One thing you get used after living in Costa Rica through a few winter seasons is rain.

The winter season is also derogatorily called our “wet” season, but we in the Costa Rica vacation biz frown on that negative description.

No, we have a much more commercially viable description for those thinking of a visit during that time of the year…

 

We like to refer to that time of the year as the GREEN season.

Now I know that the idea of even one drop of that liquid stuff falling on your Costa Rican vacation parade is a double-negative for those of you Northerners who come down here expecting nothing but sunshine and lush tropical greenery.

Well, the problem is that without the rain, there is no lush tropical greenery. Costa Rica rain makes the country what it is, one of the most beautiful places on earth, a veritable garden of Eden if you will (o.k., maybe that’s stretching it).

And after a while rain just sort of becomes part of every day life for those of us who actually live here.  You don’t need Willard Scott (yes, I’m dating myself) to tell you what the weather will be in between his birthday wishes for centenarians.  We know what the weather will be, rain!  At least a few hours of it in the afternoon.

Yes, there is still plenty of sunshine, even in the rainy, uh, green, season.

It’s very re-assuring to have a weather pattern that’s so consistent.

Oh, and we do have one unpredictable weather month, December.  It is the so-called transition month between winter and summer.  During that month the weather can be a little quirky.  But Christmas festivities are distracting enough that you don’t really notice it.  See, I can put a positive spin on anything, even Costa Rica rain!

Back in the Carolinas where I grew up the weather was anything but consistent.  Could be cold one day, hot the next.  Windy one day, hot, humid and without the slightest breeze the next and so on.

Here we have rain from May through November and dry weather from December, well o.k., January through April.  That’s the way Mother Nature set it up, so you just have to deal with it.

There is no use complaining about it, because all the complaining in the world ain’t gonna change it.

Better to complain about things you can change.

Better yet, stop complaining and change them!

And in the meantime, bring an umbrella just in case.

And by all means remember this, ANY TIME is a good time to come to Costa Rica!

Here is a rain song to brighten your day…

image credit: Chris Jimenez Nature Photo via Compfight cc

Costa Rica is a Land of Many Rivers

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There is something fascinating about a river.

A river is perhaps given birth by a small pool of fresh water high in the mountains.

In Costa Rica we have two coastlines, the Pacific and the Caribbean.

The unwavering law of gravity pulls the water in one direction or the other, towards one of our coasts, where the river unites with the sea.

This is a continuous occurrence with no discernible beginning or end.

But the truth is that the river is in a constant state of change. The river you observe in one moment is not the same as that which you observe the following.

Actually on some level that is hidden from our eyes, this is true of all matter…all is in a constant state of change, even our own bodies.

It’s just more easily seen with the naked eye in case of ever flowing rivers.

Sometimes I think, childishly, will the river ever just stop flowing? As if there were a giant spigot that could just be closed somewhere up there from whence those waters flow.

In Costa Rica the level of our rivers rises and falls with the seasons. During the green season the power flowing through them is amazing and intimidating. During the summer season, when the rains end, the rivers lose much of their intensity…it is as if their wrath subsides and they become more tranquil and clear.

Better for diving in to beat the heat.

The rivers are alive. They both emit and evoke strong emotions.

To be such a small country, it is amazing that so many rivers call Costa Rica home. We have the mighty ones like the Pacuare and Reventazon, which are natural playgrounds for those who like to experience them up close and personal. We have rivers like Celeste that at times can be as blue as the sky.

There are so many more that I could mention. These rivers give us so much to be thankful for.

They nourish us, physically, emotionally and spiritually. They provide power.

Truly Costa Rica is a land of many rivers. It is one of our greatest resources and one that must be guarded and protected at all costs.

Like all forms of life, the living rivers are vulnerable. There are those who seem to not understand that if we sacrifice our rivers, we are just killing ourselves.

That is so true in Costa Rica, as well as anywhere else in the world.

Costa Rica would not be the same without its rivers and neither would the rest of our planet.

Costa Ricans are Americans Too

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Map of America from 1744

I feel compelled to re-address a “pet peeve” of mine. It is the habit of folks from the U.S. to always refer to their homeland as “America” and to themselves, in an exclusive manner, as “Americans.”

A Little Geography and History

The fact is that “America” or “the Americas” consists of the continental land mass with three divisions, being North America (of which Central America is actually a part), the Isthmus of Panama and South America. The name America first appeared in the early 1500′s and is often attributed to the Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci, who explored the east coast of Brazil from 1499 to 1502 (although attributing the name to him has been disputed). This great land mass covers 8.3% of the surface of the earth, 28.4% of its entire land mass and 13.5% of all earth’s inhabitants.  It is also referred to as the “New World.” Before the explorers from Europe arrived on the scene it was entirely inhabited by native Indians.

Who is an American?

So when, where and how did the U.S. suddenly arrive to become widely known as “America” and solely the citizens of that one particular country (out of the 55 that exist) as “Americans?” I can tell you from experience that it is offensive to the folks here in Costa Rica to hear a person from the U.S. refer to his country, or to himself, “exclusively” in this way. What is meant by it anyway? Is it just a lazy, or ignorant, habit? Or is there some underlying motivation?

Do we who are from the U.S. truly believe that we are so exceptional that we embody 100% of what it means to be “American” and that all those poor schleps to the North and South of us just don’t quite “cut the mustard?”

Long ago I wrote about Obama’s speech at Cairo University and of the quote in which he stated, “any world order that elevates one nation or group of people over another will inevitably fail.” Throughout the course of human history, nations, and groups of people within them, have done just that and it hasn’t generally led to good things.

Anyone who calls home the northernmost reaches of Canada to the southernmost of Argentina, as well as all points in between, has the right to call him or herself “American.” It’s just a geographical fact.

We’re all Americans

There is a degree of resentment, however, among the folks that inhabitant the southern region of the Americas. They seem to have often gotten the “short end of the stick” when it comes to being part of America. They are often portrayed in U.S. culture as being of a lower class or social order (as in the gardener, house keeper, or drug cartel member). In short, they have often been looked down upon (and even exploited) from those to the north.

The habit of referring to oneself, if you happen to be from the U.S., as American to me is indicative of a major impact blinder. I admit, I did the same thing when I arrived to Costa Rica 12 years ago and was often scolded for it. It was a habit that took some time to shed. But shedding that habit of speech, or, worse, of thought, was the right thing to do.

Yes I am American, but so are my brothers and sisters from Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama, Colombia, and all other countries that make up the Americas. If it sounds like I am lecturing, well, I guess I am.

So, the next time you become conscious that you are about to refer to the U.S. in a way that connotes the one true embodiment of America, think before you speak, especially if you are in the audience of someone who might feel a bit excluded. Remember, Costa Ricans are Americans too!

To a nation that originated almost entirely of immigrants, that should be understandable.

Costa Rica Culture of Politeness

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Palabra Magica

Costa Rican society is decidedly polite compared to that of the U.S.  It might be the biggest area of reverse culture shock one will experience after being here for a long time and then returning to the U.S.  At least, that has been my experience.  Some describe Costa Rica culture as “passive-aggressive.” I prefer to just call it polite, since no one ever really knows what is going on behind a smile, but it’s still a more pleasant experience than a scowl.

Now there are exceptions to every rule.  Those apply here on the streets, avenues and highways.  Just put the most polite, well refined Tico behind the steering wheel of an automobile, and it is like pouring water on a “gremlin” (you remember those lovable little creatures from that early Spielberg kid-flick?).  Yea, they become little demons hell-bent on destruction.  But outside of that environment, politeness rules.

I am still trying to adapt, because sometimes I just don’t feel like being polite.  Those times are usually when I am too wrapped up in what is going on in my life at the moment (or in my head) to take the time to try to brighten someone’s day with a simple, disculpe, por favor, or gracias.  Here folks are just polite, even when they may not be having the best day.  It is not as if they are “faking it.”  The politeness comes natural.  In the culture of the U.S., you can readily tell when someone is faking it, can’t you?  You know, the so-called “courtesy laugh” at that joke you blew, or the “courtesy smile” when lurking just behind it is seething cynicism.

I am one of those persons that tends to wear his emotions on his shirt sleeve and that does not always go over so well in this culture.  I am learning to be naturally polite, because I admit I am not (as any of my friends here will attest).  I am polite when and if I feel like it.  The Spanish language of politeness does not roll off the tip of my tongue as easily as “hey that’ll be 20 dollars of super and check the oil while you’re at it.”

But politeness will get you further in Costa Rica.  It will open doors that sometimes appear to be shut to gringo expats who haven’t learned the language of politeness yet.  It will develop and strengthen relationships. It will make you feel better because you are making others feel better.  Because in reality life is not all about us, is it?

To refuse to learn to adapt to this culture of politeness is to remain in the cynical and pessimistic world where one always demands that his needs be met and to hell with anyone else. That does not go over so well down here.

So take a tip from the Costa Rica Guy and make your first Spanish lesson be to learn the language of politeness. And the “palabra mágica” is……P-O-R F-A-V-O-R.

Gracias, Adios!

Cultural Faux Pas in Costa Rica

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I thought I would bring to your attention a few cultural faux pas in Costa Rica that we gringos are often guilty of and that aren’t very endearing to the typical tico or tica.

10 that quickly come to mind are:

1. Slamming doors – this is especially the case with taxi cabs. You should know that most cab drivers are “packing” and will not hesitate to reach for it if you slam that door hard enough. This is a habit I am still trying to get my kid Zack to relinquish when he visits…before he gets shot!

2. Being rude – We gringos have a tendency to take politeness less seriously that folks do down here. Case in point: you will get approached by street vendors wanting to sell you all manner of things you haven’t the slightest interest in, as well as beggars who just want some of your spare change for whatever reason. Here is a tip…refuse politely…with a “no gracias”…not a get the f*** out of my face attitude…others will notice.

3. Being impatient – related to the above. Ticos are many things, but “in a hurry” ain’t one of them. And they don’t appreciate in the least gringos who try to rush them.

4. Flaunting wealth – In general Costa Ricans don’t enjoy anywhere near the level of material excess that most gringos, even poor ones like me, enjoy. It is just bad form to show off when you are down here. And it is an invitation to get robbed, or worse. A good rule to go by is “never tempt a poor person.”

5. Flirting inappropriately – This one is for the guys. Yes, Costa Rican women are beautiful. I am sure you have heard about that and may suffer from the mistaken assumption that they are “easy” as well. That would be woefully incorrect and acting on that assumption can get you in a whole heap of trouble with the ladies. Now I am not talking about the ones in places like the infamous “Hotel Del Rey.”

6. Being overly suspicious – I have seen many times, even with my own customers, an overly suspicious manner of dealing with the ticos. It usually surfaces mainly out of confusion about currency exchange, but it comes off very offensive. As if you are insinuating that every commercial exchange is an opportunity to “rip the gringo off.” That’s not true. Get clear on the currency math (it’s not that difficult) and lighten up on the economic paranoia.

7. Vulgarity and General Bad Manners – Costa Ricans (and Latin Americans in general) are not vulgar and don’t appreciate vulgarity…not with speech nor in other forms. Burping and worse, definitely a no no…even among friends and family.

8. Drawing Undue Attention – Loud and obnoxious is not the way to win the hearts and minds of the ticos…sure, they can be that way, especially during a heated fútbol match, but this is their country…so they kind of have a right to be that way here, we don’t.

9. Expecting people to understand your English (or poor Spanish) – I have to admit this one tripped me up quite a bit back in the day (when I couldn’t muster up the fluency to ask where the bathroom was). If you don’t speak Spanish, communicating in a place where that is the language spoken will be a challenge. Accept it as such with a light-hearted attitude and you’ll have more fun and get by just fine. If you take every communication mishap as a personal affront it will be much more difficult to win friends or influence anyone.

10. Calling ourselves “Americans” to the exclusion of the rest of America – Oh this is a big pet peeve of mine. Here is a geography lesson for you. America actually consists of two continents (North and South) joined by a “land bridge” (Central). All of the inhabitants of those three land masses have the right to call themselves “American”. Technically, Central America (including Costa Rica) is part of the North American continent, just as is the U.S.A.

I am definitely playing the role of “black pot” here and don’t mean to sound as if I am preaching to the kettle. If so, just take it as coming from someone who has been here and done many of the above more times that I would want to freely admit. It is not endearing to the folks down here, so best to avoid all 10 of the above cultural faux pas in Costa Rica.

Oh and note that the term “gringo” is not used pejoratively in Costa Rica…so don’t take offense to my use above, nor to the frequent usages you will definitely encounter upon arrival…Costa Ricans are quite fond of us actually, as long as we act in the manner of a gracious guest.  And, after all, you would demand no less from them, correct?

What is My Favorite Place in Costa Rica?

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My favorite place in Costa Rica

My favorite place in Costa Rica?  That is a question I tend to always get from Package Costa Rica customers I am privileged to meet and chat with. That happened more frequently in the past when I lived in San Jose, but less so now that I live in Perez Zeledon, far removed from either of the two international airports.

So, I will take a stab at an answer here. Because, believe me, it ain’t an easy question!

I love it all! Okay, I know that is a cop-out answer. So, let me force myself to be a bit more specific. I do love it all, but I love some parts more than others.

Three Places I really really love:

Northern Central Zone (including Arenal) – actually I love the entire northern central zone from the volcano to Upala, just south of the Nicaraguan border. Back when I used to have to make border runs to renew my visa (before I received my residency), I always went through this area rather than down the Pan American (boring) highway. Why? Because it is lush and green, exotic and intensely tropical, and adventurous. Places like Rio Celeste just outside of the little pueblo known as Guatuso, Caño Negro, and of course Arenal itself, make this section of Costa Rica one that I truly love and never grow tired of.

Manzanillo-Gandoca Wildlife Refuge – There are few beaches in Costa Rica that can rival the beauty of this place. You have to drive to where the southern Caribbean coastal highway (the one that runs through Puerto Viejo and other beaches to the south of it) comes to an abrupt end. Then you park and start walking. And you can walk and walk and what you will discover is, to put it simply, paradise. And there are very few things to disturb your experience of it. I have never been to this place when it was crowded. Usually you can find your own little private beach nestled within a cove with a combination of interesting coral formations teaming with colorful fish and crystal clear pools of warm ocean water. Just thinking about it makes me want to go there right now!

The Southern Zone – Well, what can I say. These days, once again, I am a southern boy (southern Costa Rica that is). I currently live in Perez Zeledon, which is the largest city and gateway of the southern zone. What do I love about this area of Costa Rica so much? I guess the fact that it is still largely undeveloped. This part of Costa Rica is the wild part. From the rugged Talamancas, to the Fila Costeña-hugged southern pacific coastline and on to the dazzling bio-diversity of the Osa Peninsula, this place is just everything I always dreamed Costa Rica would be. Jungles teaming with wildlife, pristine crystal clear unpolluted rivers barreling down mountains on their way to the sea, people who are all smiles most all the time, these are the qualities of Costa Rica that hooked me 12 years ago. And in my humble opinion, there is no place that better exhibits them than my beloved southern zone.  I have to add that it is home to Costa Rica’s highest mountain, Chirripo, a place that is very near and dear to me (I have scaled it twice).

So if I am forced to pick my favorite place in Costa Rica – and you are going to force me, aren’t you? – it would have to be (drum roll please) the southern zone! Now, please don’t ask me to get more specific than that!

But if you must, it would have to be filtered down to that narrow and hallowed patch of rocky soil, the summit of Cerro Chirripo – a place that is extremely hard to get to, but worth all the trouble.

Post by CRG

 

Conquering Chirripo – Round 2

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071

Just returned from my second 2-day long ordeal to reach the top of Costa Rica, Cerro Chirripo.  First a few facts about this sacred mountain (sacred to me because of the blood, sweat and tears, yes tears, I have shed upon its rocky flanks)….

  • highest mountain in Costa Rica, with an elevation of 3,820 meters (12,533 ft)
  •  38th most prominent peak in the world
  • from the trail-head, the summit can be reached via a 19.5-kilometer (12.1 mi) hike
  • it is possible on clear days to see from coast to coast, from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean Sea

Now for the statistics of my latest Chirripo conquest….

  • trail-head to Base Crestones (the very “bare-bones” base-camp where one spends a cold night prior to striking out for the summit) – 7 hours, 13 minutes
  • Base Crestones to summit and return to Base – 4 hours, 15 minutes
  • Base Crestones to trail-head – 5 hours, 15 minutes
  • total hike time – 16 hours, 43 minutes

Chirripo is an endurance test for anyone, let alone a 52 year-old who likes his Imperials and tragos de Flor de Caña a bit too much.  But apart from the sheer effort it takes to arrive at the top, there is an intense spiritual element in the experience, at least for me.  Once you enter into the valle de los conejos you reach a point of environmental nirvana that is as completely unsullied in its natural state as one can find on this planet and accessible to the human form without risking one’s life and limb (and bank account) to get there…..Everest comes to mind, but how many have died on its icy slopes?  Some really do pay a dear price as one unlucky man with a dislocated vertebrae was awaiting a helicopter to bring him back down to a hospital (at a price of around $5,000).  I am fortunate to say that my price was merely sore feet (my shoes were a bit too snug for the descent to be anything but a painful experience).

I made the trek this time with my buddy David Picado (he was unable to make the summit due to a bum knee that was aggravated on the 7 plus hour ascent to Base) and my 15 year-old sobrino (nephew for you gringos), Sebastian (or, Sebas as we like to call him).  Chirripo remains hidden from sight for most of the trek and only reveals itself about a kilometer or so prior to reaching the summit.  Sebas must have asked me a hundred times which peak was indeed Chirripo, as the park is home to numerous ones that closely rival the namesake in height.  But once you get that first glimpse of the jagged triangular peak one’s initial reaction is to gasp (at both its immaculateness and due to the fact that you know you must get up there….somehow).

And that somehow is basically with every ounce of energy your arms and legs can muster as you strain towards the top against gravity and lack of oxygen.  Once you arrive you are greeted with the most magnificent view that I have had privilege of laying eyes upon in my 52 years above ground.  I have not seen it myself, but they say on particularly clear days both oceans (Pacific and Caribbean) are visible.

I hope that this is not my last visit to this hallowed rocky parcel of my beloved Tiquicia.  In fact, I plan (at least in my head) to make the trek once a year for as long as my legs and lungs will allow it.  And since I live only an hour from the trail-head, there aren’t too many excuses for not doing so.  Chirripo presents a rough reminder of our mortality.  But also of the immortal nature of the human spirit as well as the author and creator of both.

About a Mountain

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There’s just something about a mountain.  I grew up a flat-lander, on the coasts of North and South Carolina.  However, I have always been drawn mysteriously, like some cosmic magnetic pull, to the mountains.  Maybe that is the chief reason I love Costa Rica so much.  I have often wondered what exactly is it that keeps me glued here?  I believe it may be the mountains and Costa Rica has them in abundant supply.  So many people flock to Costa Rica for its beaches, or to see the Arenal Volcano.  Granted Costa Rica has gorgeous beaches and the Arenal Volcano is an amazing sight to behold, but for yours truly the real magic is in the mountains.  When I look up at the majestic peaks right outside my window as I sit writing this morning, I feel inspired and I start to wonder.  What would it be like to stand on top of that peak right now?  How long would it take to get there?  What is life like for the people I can see living within the folds of that beautiful vibrantly green mountain?  What could I discover in a journey to the top?  I am a person with a fairly high sense of adventure.  Mountains are the best way I know of to satisfy my craving.  My oldest daughter and I once hiked to the summit of Chirripo, Costa Rica’s tallest peak (at around 12,500 feet).  It was one of the most grueling two day adventures I have ever had, yet completely exhilarating.

I think mountains serve to give one a sense of constancy, something that can be relied upon.  They have been there for quite a long  time, and probably, hopefully, won’t be leaving any time soon.  I can rely on the fact that whenever I leave Costa Rica, usually for flatter ground, those mountains will still be there when I return.  It always comes as a relief to see them.  It feels like home.  When I am really stressed out by the general hustle and bustle of living in a pretty large city (San Jose), where do I head to escape?  The mountains.  I have my favorite little hideaways.  Places where no one could ever hope to find me.  Neither ex’s nor IRS agents could ever get to me up there.  I can look down upon everything I imagine might be happening below and feel a sense of removal, the quiet calm of being “above the fray.”  I really need those mountains, almost as much as water, food and fresh air.  Because, my friend, they are food for my soul and without a way to nourish the soul we tend to slip down a rung or two on the ladder of evolutionary growth.  It is not a coincidence that mountains lead you up, a little closer to heaven.

Hay algo acerca de una montaña. Crecí un piso-sonda, en las costas de Norte y Carolina del Sur. Sin embargo, siempre he sido elaborado misteriosamente, como una atracción magnética cósmica, a las montañas. Tal vez esa es una razón por la que amamos a Costa Rica tanto. A menudo me he preguntado qué es exactamente lo que me mantiene pegado en esta lista? Creo que puede ser las montañas y Costa Rica los tiene en abundancia. Así que muchas personas acuden a Costa Rica por sus playas, o para ver el Volcán Arenal. Por supuesto Costa Rica tiene hermosas playas y el Volcán Arenal es un espectáculo impresionante para la vista, pero para su servidor la magia de lo real está en las montañas. Cuando miro hacia las cumbres majestuosas justo afuera de mi ventana, me siento inspirado y me pongo a pensar. ¿Cómo sería estar de pie en la cima de ese pico en este momento? ¿Cuánto tiempo se tarda en llegar? ¿Qué es la vida de la gente que puede ver que viven dentro de los pliegues de la montaña hermosa vibrante color verde? ¿Qué podía descubrir en un viaje a la cima? Soy una persona con un sentido bastante alto de aventura. Las montañas son la mejor manera que conozco para satisfacer mi deseo. Mi hija mayor y una vez subió a la cima del Chirripó, el pico más alto de Costa Rica (en torno a 12.500 pies). Fue uno de los más agotadores días dos aventuras que he tenido, sin embargo, totalmente emocionante.

Creo que las montañas sirven para dar un sentido de constancia, algo que se puede confiar. Ellos han estado allí por mucho tiempo, y probablemente, con suerte, no se irá en el corto plazo. Puedo confiar en el hecho de que cada vez que salgo de Costa Rica, por lo general de un terreno plano, las montañas todavía estará allí cuando regrese. Siempre es un alivio para verlos. Se siente como en casa. Cuando estoy muy estresada por el ajetreo y el bullicio general de vivir en una ciudad bastante grande (San José), ¿dónde me dirijo para escapar …. las montañas. Yo tengo mis rincones favoritos de poco. Lugares donde nadie podía esperar que me encuentre. Ni los ex’s ni agentes del IRS, ni nunca podría llegar a mí allí. Puedo mirar hacia abajo a todo lo que puedo imaginar que podría estar sucediendo a continuación y una sensación de retiro, la tranquilidad de estar “por encima de la refriega.” Realmente necesito esas montañas, casi tanto como el agua, los alimentos y el aire fresco. Porque, que son alimento para mi alma y sin una manera de alimentar el alma que tienden a deslizarse hacia abajo un peldaño o dos en la escala de crecimiento evolutivo. No es una coincidencia que las montañas que conducen, un poco más cerca del cielo.

Of Gringo Origin

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Where did the word “gringo” (or in feminine form, “gringa”) come from anyway? I have heard many stories, including the oft told one about the Mexicans during the Mexican-American war imploring the U.S. soldiers in green uniforms to leave their country by shouting “green go!” However, according to Wikipedia that is just a story and bears no resemblance to the truth. There are many other such “legends” surrounding the origin of the term throughout Latin America, where the word is used to refer to white people from the U.S.A. Gringo, it seems, appeared in the Spanish language in the early 19th century and is a derivation of the word “griego,” meaning Greek. It was used to denote an indecipherable language along the lines of “it sounds Greek to me.” Alternatively, it may have first been used simply to refer to a foreign person, a “greek.” In Costa Rica, gringo is used to refer to folks from the U.S. However, it is not used in any pejorative sense. It is just a way of referring to us “gringos” and nothing ugly or offensive is meant by it. That leads me to address the deeper question of what do the ticos really think about us “gringos” anyway? I am often asked by my customers about tico attitudes towards gringos. The answer is a bit complicated. On a general level the U.S. is viewed as the proverbial “800 pound gorilla” that is a bit too fond of “throwing its weight around.” That attitude, one of an “imperialist U.S.A.” is not nearly as deeply entrenched here in Costa Rica as it is in, say, Nicaragua or Panama, both of whom have a living generation that bore witness to U.S. intervention. Costa Rica has always enjoyed a relatively cozy relationship with the U.S. and has never had to endure U.S. occupation or intervention….well there was a little bit of an attempt during the Ollie North-Iran-Contra episode of the late 1980’s, the left-overs of which can be viewed even today in Manuel Antonio in the form of a fine dining experience (a cargo plane from North’s operation of delivering arms to the Contras was transported from the clandestine airstrip in Northern Guanacaste to Manuel Antonio and converted into the popular restaurant known as “El Avion.”). Costa Rica is the number one tourism destination in Central America and fast becoming one of the hottest in the world. Over 50% of tourists are from the U.S. So, it goes without saying, Costa Ricans certainly do enjoy the “green” of the gringos. I have heard it said that the economic motivation behind the environmental protectionism in Costa Rica is because they want to keep the country green so they can get your (the U.S. tourist’s) green (dollars, that is). Due to the fact that most ticos view the U.S. as a “rich” country, and most gringos as wealthy, there is a tendency by many to view us as having a big $$-sign stamped on our foreheads. This can translate into things like price discrimination….the so called “gringo-price.” That is most often associated with real estate, but it is not limited to that context. Gringo prices are charged for many simple services, like maid-service, car repair, yard-work, home or office rents, etc., etc. In fact, I would say that in the real estate context, in terms of buying and selling real estate (as opposed to leasing), that the market for resort properties has become efficient enough to where gringo prices no longer exist on as wide a level as they once did. I mean if you are talking about a beach property in, say, Jaco, there are now more gringo buyers than there are ticos, so why should the owner offer the tico a better price? That is a level of “cultural altruism” that I don’t think exists here in Costa Rica. It also makes no economic sense and ticos aren’t stupid. The common misconception that all gringos are rich can also interfere with the development of healthy relationships, either in terms of friends, or with members of the opposite sex.  The real motivation behind the relationship has to be carefully explored prior to committing to it too whole-heartedly.  I guess the bottom line is that while ticos are generally friendly to gringos, there is still that underlying level of suspicion, distrust and desire to “maintain some distance.” That is, if you visit here, or move here, don’t expect right away to be taken in as one of them, because you aren’t. You are a gringo and always will be. There are many things, however, you can do to win friends and influence people as a gringo in Costa Rica. One that is indispensable is to learn the language. Even a genuine, yet not so successful, attempt at doing so will go a long way toward gaining you respect amongst the ticos. Also, by all means leave any sense of an arrogant, impatient, I’m an “American” attitude behind, because that only fosters and foments the little bit of hostility that does exist here towards gringos, and in that case, it is a hostility that is well-deserved.

America and American

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This morning I feel compelled to address what has become a “pet peeve” of mine. It is the habit of folks from the U.S. to always refer to their homeland as “America” and to themselves in an exclusive manner as “Americans.” The fact is that “America” or “the Americas” consists of the continental land mass with three divisions, being North America (of which Central America is actually a part), the Isthmus of Panama and South America. The name America first appeared in the early 1500’s and is often attributed to the Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci, who explored the east coast of Brazil from 1499 to 1502 (although attributing the name to him has been disputed). This great land mass covers 8.3% of the surface of the earth, 28.4% of its land mass and contains 13.5% of its inhabitants.  It is also referred to as the “New World.” Before the explorers from Europe arrived on the scene it was entirely inhabited by native Indians. So when, where and how did the U.S. suddenly arrive to become widely known as “America” and solely the citizens of that one particular country (out of 35) as “Americans?” I can tell you as a fact that it is offensive to the folks here in Costa Rica to hear a person from the U.S. refer to his country, or to himself, “exclusively” in this way. What is meant by it anyway? Is it just a lazy, or ignorant, habit? Or is there some underlying motivation? Is it that we who are from the U.S. truly believe that we are so exceptional that we embody 100% of what it means to be “American” and that all those poor schleps to the North and South of us just don’t quite “cut the mustard?” The other day I wrote of Obama’s speech at Cairo University and of his quote in which he stated, “any world order that elevates one nation or group of people over another will inevitably fail.” Throughout the course of human history, nations, and groups of people within them, have done just that and it hasn’t generally led to good things. Anyone who calls home the northernmost reaches of Canada to the southernmost of Argentina, as well as all points in between, has the right to call him or herself “American.” It is just a geographical fact. There is a lot of resentment, however, especially amongst the people that inhabitant the southern region of the Americas. Why? They seem to have often gotten the “short end of the stick” when it comes to being part of America. They are often portrayed in U.S. culture as being of a lower class or social order (as in the gardener, house keeper, or drug dealer). In short, they have often been looked down upon from those to the north. This habit of referring to oneself, if you happen to be from the U.S., as American to me is just another arrogant example of that haughty mindset. I admit, I did the same thing when I arrived to Costa Rica and was scolded often for it. It was a habit that took some time to shed. But shedding that habit of speech, or, much worse, of thought, was the right thing to do. Yes I am American, but so are my brothers and sisters from Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Panama, Colombia, and all other lands of the true Americas. If it sounds like I am lecturing, I am. So, the next time you become conscious that you are about to refer to the U.S. as America, think before you speak, especially if you are in the audience of someone who might be offended. It does matter. To a nation that consists almost entirely of immigrants, or descendants of immigrants, that should be understandable.

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