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My First Experience of Manuel Antonio

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Manuel Antonio from 2001 Until Now

I remember my first experience of Manuel Antonio back in 2001. I was working on a business deal in San Jose and I had some time over the weekend for a quick adventure. So, I asked my Nicaraguan buddy, Yuri, about Manuel Antonio. He told me he could take me there and that I definitely should see it.

So, off we went…

Back then getting to Manuel Antonio was quite a different experience than it is today. There were two one-lane and very rickety bridges you had to cross. The traffic crossing those bridges would back up forever. From time to time, during the rainy season, the bridges would be completely inundated and impassable. Nowadays, there are new two-lane bridges that make the trip much easier and a lot less stressful.

I remember that Quepos, the little fishing village one has to pass through before arriving at Manuel Antonio, gave me the impression of being just that, a dirty little fishing village. It remained that way for years. These days, however, with the ongoing development of Marina Pez Vela making an impact, Quepos has become an attraction in itself. Quepos now offers many accommodation options that are quite nice and more economical that what you will find just on the other side, in Manuel Antonio.

As soon as you get though the busy streets of Quepos and start heading up the hill and then down to the beach, what strikes you is the jungle. Up until that point, I’d seen a lot of green in Costa Rica, but nothing like this. The jungle overwhelms you. It brings you to the full realization that you’re definitely not in Kansas (or, for me, South Carolina) anymore.

Back then Manuel Antonio had already arrived on the scene as one of Costa Rica’s main tourist attractions. However, the development was far less dense than it is today. Nevertheless, there were numerous places to stay. Yuri and I had taken off on an impulse, without booking anything in advance, thinking we’d just wing it once there. It was the weekend and the high tourist season, so place after place was booked solid. We finally arrived at this one small hotel overlooking the ocean. I believe it was called La Roca. It’s still there. The guy at the reception told us they did have one room available, but with only one king-sized bed. Yuri and I had no intention of sleeping together and asked if there was any possibility of adding another bed. The guy looked at us oddly, as if wondering what the hell for? Little did we know that at that time La Roca was a hotel that catered mainly to homosexuals. In fact, Manuel Antonio made a name for itself initially as a get-away for gay people.

These days it’s much more than that, as high rollers, families, romantic couples, young backpackers, and everything in between, make Manuel Antonio a must-see Costa Rica destination. Since that first visit I founded and still operate a vacation package business and perhaps some 80% of our tours included Manuel Antonio as a destination.

Of course, the main attraction is the national park and I will never forget my first experience of it. Since then, I’ve had many others, but that first one was really special. We hired a guide to walk through with us and one of our first nature encounters was a large boa who was in the process of swallowing an almost equally large iguana. That shouldn’t have been surprising as there were iguanas literally everywhere. And the monkeys, my god, the monkey’s. Yuri had told me a little about the park, but nothing prepares you for the intensity of the biodiversity you come face to face with in that place. There’s no wonder that it’s one of Costa Rica natural wonders and its most popular national park. That’s saying a lot when 25% of the entire land area of the country is basically some form of national park.

Since my first experience of Manuel Antonio I’ve had the good fortune of visiting Manuel Antonio countless times. In fact, I live only about an hour away from it in Perez Zeledon. It seems that every time you go there now there’s something new, either a new hotel, restaurant, bar, or club. And then there’s the incredible development of the Marina Pez Vela, which is now one of the most upscale resort locations in the country and it continues to expand.

And yet, even with all that development, Manuel Antonio still manages to make you feel like you’re really in the deep and dark jungle of Costa Rica. That’s because when you’re there, you really are.

Let’s hope things stay that way!

Here’s a photo gallery of one of my early visits…circa 2003, I believe (hotel pictured is La Mansion Inn, one of my favorites)…

Manuel Antonio

Manuel Antonio Growth – Where Will it Go?

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Manuel Antonio Growth

Where Manuel Antonio growth will go is a very good question. The road that leads from Quepos down to the National Park is about as densely developed on either side as it can be. To the west of that road is the Pacific ocean. Much of the immediate east side, behind what’s already there, is not developable, nor really even accessible.

There’s not a whole lot of room for Quepos to expand. The pueblo itself is getting a shot in the arm, economically, by the new Pez Vela Marina, which is undergoing rapid commercial development. But area-wise, the only direction really for the entire Quepos/Manuel Antonio are to grow in is to the east of Quepos and the Costanera.

Currently there’s not a whole lot going on in those locations. To the east of the Costanera, the area behind the hospital and the Quepos airport (Aeropuerto La Managua), there are popular tico barrios, such as Lomas del Cruce and Lourdes. Could those barrios one day become “gentrified” gringo enclaves, the way many tico barrios up in the mountains around places like Dominical, Ojochal and Uvita have become?

Well, it’s certainly a possibility!

One thing’s for sure, the impetus for growth is there. More and more expats will be looking at this area, with its easy flights from San Jose and its 5-star marina, as the place to call home. Developers will surely take notice and be on the lookout for good, cheap and plentiful land. I believe the locations where they will find that available are those tico barrios to the east of the Costanera. Developments on the “high ground” in those areas will feature easy airport access, ocean views, and quick access to Quepos and, of course, the gorgeous beaches of Manuel Antonio.

Recently I had a conversation with my old buddy Cornelius. I’ve known Cornelius since way back during my first visits to the area in the early 2000’s. Back then he was first a bartender and later manager at the famous La Mansion Inn, which was always one of my favorite places to stay while in the area. It still is, by the way, and has always been a favorite of many of my vacation customers. There’s nothing like the views of the bay from the pool area and I love the cool bat cave bar!

Cornelius, or Corky, is now the marketing manager at Hotel Kamuk, the largest and one of the oldest hotels in Quepos. Over the years he has become a real VIP, politically and otherwise. Someone you definitely want to know. Plus, he’s just an all-around great guy. He told me that growth in the area will definitely go in the direction of those tico barrios out behind the airport and hospital. He took me for a quick tour as I had never had reason to go over there before. That’s where Manuel Antonio growth has to go, Corky informed me!

There is only so much density that the “jungle road” that leads to the park can handle before it begins to really take a toll on the rich biodiversity that draws people to Manuel Antonio. Manuel Antonio growth needs to spread out a little and going east is the way that can happen without damaging the biodiversity and ambiance with too much additional high density.

the-definitive-guide-ebook-cover-small

Hey, my new book The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living is now live on Amazon. If you’re thinking about making an escape from the rat-race, whether for political or mental and physical health reasons, or all of the above, The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living was written just for you!

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The Evolution of Quepos

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The Evolution of Quepos

Quepos has been a “sleepy” little pueblo for as long as I can remember, but lately it’s waking up! The evolution of Quepos, from sleepy little fishing village to prime tourist destination, can be summed up in a name…

the Marina Pez Vela.

For many years Costa Rica had only one true world-class marina, the Los Sueños marina in Playa Herradura. For years there was talk of one taking shape in Playa Flamingo in the Guanacaste region. But that talk never seemed to evolve into anything concrete. Then all of a sudden the secret was out that a new marina was to be built in Quepos.

Marinas are difficult things to develop in Costa Rica. The government, as well as the local population, tend to view them suspiciously. There is always the concern about the potential for negative environmental impact that marina development poses. The locals also view marinas as a sure way to change the entire complexity of their communities, from those dominated by locals, to those taken over by gringos with the big bucks. And when that happens, the price of life tends to rise for everyone.

Nevertheless, it was inevitable for a world-wide tourist phenomenon like Costa Rica, whose very name means “rich coast”, to attract marina development. If you own a luxury yacht, why wouldn’t you want to sail it into port in Costa Rica?

Unlike the situation in Flamingo, the Marina Pez Vela did actually take shape, albeit slowly. These days, however, the pace of its growth has definitely ratcheted up a notch or two.

My first visit to the marina several years ago didn’t impress me that much. However, a more recent visit certainly did.

The Evolution of Quepos

The marina is now home to a wide variety of shops, restaurants and tourist venues. They’ve built a new large parking deck. There seems to be a whole lot more luxury yachts in port than I remember from before. The whole place has become alive with excitement and activity. And that has the entire community of Quepos buzzing as well.

The Evolution of Quepos

I talked about it all with my old friend Cornelius Mesen, the marketing manager of Hotel Kamuk, the largest and one of the oldest hotels in downtown Quepos. I asked him if he’d seen much of a tourist effect from the marina. Cornelius told me that had not happened as of yet, but he envisions that great and positive change is on the not so distant horizon.

Most tourists bypass Quepos and make a b-line to Manuel Antonio, with its gorgeous white sand beaches, plethora of ritzy boutique hotels, and super cool restaurants, bars and shops. These days, however, Quepos is offering more and better accommodations than in years past. Hotel and Casino Kamuk is definitely an example.

The Marina Pez Vela will surely put Quepos on the tourist map. It has long been that bustling and dirty little fishing village one had to endure before arriving to the main destination of Manuel Antonio.

However, in the future, the evolution of Quepos is surely for this place to become a noteworthy tourist destination of its own right.

the-definitive-guide-ebook-cover-small

Hey, my new book The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living is now live on Amazon. If you’re thinking about making an escape from the rat-race, whether for political or mental and physical health reasons, or all of the above, The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living was written just for you!

Get the Book!

Setting Up Your Life as a Costa Rica Expat

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Life as a Costa Rica Expat

This is chapter from my new book, The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living. The book covers a whole host of issues on starting a life as a Costa Rica expat…

You’ve arrived. You have a new home in Costa Rica, hopefully just as you envisioned. Now it’s time to start living your new life in Costa Rica, hopefully, just as you envisioned.

So, what’s next?

Setting Up Routine Services

Well, you’re going to need internet, telephone and cable TV, of course! There’s a little problem for expats who are not yet residents when it comes to setting up routine services like the aforementioned. It all has to do with this thing called a “cedula.”

A cedula is basically an official government issued identification. For you that would come in the form of a residency card. However, getting one of those is harder than you might think and I cover that in more detail below.

When you go into the phone company, or an internet service provider and try to contract for their service they will first ask to see your cedula. If you don’t have one you’ve got problems. However, there is an end-run around that. You can use the corporation you formed to take title to your property.

There is no restriction for a foreigner to own and manage a Costa Rican corporation. And the corporation, once legally formed, has a cedula juridica, or an identification number. With that you can contract for services in the name of the corporation, just as you could with your own residency cedula.

You will need a document called a personaria juridica, which basically shows that you have authority to act on behalf of the corporation. An attorney can do this for you at a fairly small cost, or you can go into a national registry office and get one even cheaper. However, registry offices aren’t located in many places, so you might end up paying your attorney every time you need one. They generally have to be “fresh”, or issued no more than 3 months prior to the date of use.

In opening a bank account, which by this point you probably have already done, you will encounter the same problem. Nonresidents will have to open the account in the name of a Costa Rican corporation. You will find that opening a bank account, and banking in general, in Costa Rica is both an adventure and an exercise in patience.

Driving Legally

There once was a time when this wasn’t that big of an issue. A nonresident could easily get a drivers licence in Costa Rica. I had one for years as a nonresident. All that has changed. Now the issuance of a license requires a cedula. Your valid license from back home will serve you for the duration of your tourist visa, usually 3 months, but beyond that you can’t legally drive on Costa Rican roads without a valid Costa Rican driver’s license. This has made getting a residency all the more important for expats who want to have cars and drive them in Costa Rica. I guess that was the point of changing the law. Each time you leave the country you renew your tourist visa and your right to rely on your home license for an additional 3 months, but that’s hardly a sufficient consolation for the expat desiring to establish a new and mobile life in Costa Rica.

Residency versus Perpetual Tourism

There are many expats living full-time in Costa Rica without residency. We call them perpetual tourists. I did this for years, while I was trying to get my residency via my investment in a tourism business I founded in Costa Rica. I went through many bad attorneys who promised the world for a hefty fee and delivered nothing. So, I just kept leaving the country every 3 months for a 3 day vacation, usually to Nicaragua. I actually enjoyed these trips. However, it’s anxiety producing to have the stress of knowing you must leave the country every 3 months, or become an “illegal.”

When I got married to a tica (actually a Colombian lady who was a nationalized Costa Rica citizen) all that changed. I was able to easily get a permanent residency, without restrictions. That’s the most coveted form of residency and is reserved for familial ties, like marriage or having a child on Costa Rican soil.

There are several other forms of obtaining residency. These forms of residency will be temporary. They do not allow you to work in Costa Rica. However, you can own a business, manage it, and draw out the profits. I will cover that in more detail in the Making a Living chapter. Nevertheless, to maintain your residency you will have to be a member of and pay into the Costa Rica health care and social security system, known as the CAJA.

The main types of temporary residency most expats take advantage of are rentista, pensionista and inversionista. The first two require a guaranteed source of income like social security, a pension, or annuity. Under a former law, residency via investment, or inversionista, was first appraised by immigration authorities to determine whether it was a “good investment” for the country, based on considerations such as whether it had a direct impact on key industries or created new jobs locally.

However, this changed with the new immigration law, which has already been in force now for several years. Currently, the investment is defined as any new capital contribution made by the foreigner in either shares of equity of local companies, or registered assets.

These would include the purchase of a lot, an apartment, or a home, as real estate assets are “registered assets” in Costa Rica. To qualify you must be able to document that the real estate asset purchase, with your own money, was at least $200,000.

The many nuances of obtaining residency are well beyond the scope of this eBook. Having a residency in Costa Rica is not a prerequisite for owning real estate here, or even living here part-time. You can join the legion of perpetual tourists who leave and return periodically. If you are planning to do that anyway, then perhaps residency is a hassle and expense you really don’t need to cope with.

However, most expats who really want to transition to a “permanent” life in Costa Rica will probably want to obtain a residency. It will make life easier in many ways. You will be issued a “cedula” as was discussed above. You will feel like you’re a part of the country. My advice is get a good attorney who knows what he or she is doing. You can attend the residency conference of the Association of Residents of Costa Rica (ARCR). That is a great source of information and guidance on obtaining your residency in Costa Rica.

Be patient with the process. The immigration office in Costa Rica is the most disorganized and bureaucratic government agency of all! It can take up to a year before you have your cedula in hand.

Good luck!

Language Barriers

I believe expats get a little too anxious when it comes to the “language barrier.” First of all, there are lots of Costa Ricans who speak English. And virtually all Costa Ricans are quite used to hearing English spoken and communicating with gringos who don’t speak much if any Spanish. Costa Ricans are by nature peaceful, easy-going and patient people. That is especially true where their language is concerned. They will appreciate and assist attempts to learn and speak it.

Do you need to learn the language? Yes! If you really want to immerse and feel a part of the culture here, you need to at least have a conversational level of Spanish. So, get on it. There are many opportunities for courses and you will certainly get a ton of practice. The only way to really learn it, once you have the fundamentals, is practice, practice, practice.

Don’t be afraid to embarrass yourself. You will! It’s all part of the adventure and the fun of being a Costa Rica expat.

Setting up your life as a Costa Rica expat requires patience and persistence. Take your time, get and follow good advice, and celebrate each victory. Don’t try to cut corners as many do, thinking their money will help them jump to the front of the many lines one has to endure in Costa Rica. Usually what that mentality does is just make them a little poorer and a lot more frustrated. Do things the right way and you’ll be rewarded.

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